Will the REIN 2.0 or REIN 3.0 light head work on the REIN 1.0 light body?

The REIN 2.0 and 3.0 light heads will fit on all previous versions of the REIN bodies. However, there was a rolling change on tail cap production made around July of 2021. The original tail caps feature a single (gold) spring. The upgraded tailcaps feature a 2-spring design (a spring housed inside another spring) and these units are nickel-plated. The new 2-spring design is required for use with the REIN 2.0 and 3.0 as it lowers electrical resistance and allows for the higher performance the new lights are capable of supporting.

The single-spring version of the tailcap must never be used with the REIN 2.0 or 3.0 light heads. USING THE SINGLE SPRING WITH A REIN 2.0 or 3.0 LIGHT HEAD WILL CAUSE FAILURE OF THE SWITCH AND THIS IS NOT COVERED UNDER WARRANTY. You can easily identify a switch that has suffered this failure. So if it happens, everybody involved will know very clearly how that switch failed.

Single Spring, Gold Plated

Single Spring, Nickel Plated

Dual Spring, Nickel Plated

Single Spring Failure

What does "electrically isolated" mean?

One of the most important features with the REIN, is also one of the least-addressed: We designed the Remote Switch to be electrically isolated from the push-button on the tail cap.. What this means is the switches are on separate circuits. The remote switch is permanently integrated into the main push button switch on the back of the light. That is not able to be removed and reinstalled. However, if either switch suffers a catastrophic failure, because of the isolated circuits of the switch, you are still able to operate the light from the opposite switch. We make the most reliable and robust switches on the market. They are made right here, in-house at our facility. Issues are very rare. Should something happen however, reach out to us at Support@Clouddefensive.com and we will be glad to get that switch replaced for you under warranty.

Why an 18650 battery over CR123 batteries?

The CR123 battery has been the standard for a number of years. But the 18650 rechargeable battery has replaced it as the new gold-standard for performance. Capable of higher amperage discharge and more capacity, it’s simply a much better performer. So much better actually, that an 18650 at 50% charge offers more energy potential than 2 brand new CR123 batteries. The difference is truly significant. Offering more run-time and more output, it is an easy choice.

A common argument against the 18650 is availability. You should consider a few things on that topic:

Like ammunition and other critical items, simply purchase what you need ahead of time. Plan ahead.

The 18650 cells are good for about 300 deep cycles during their lifetime. CR123 batteries are primary cells. Meaning you use them and throw them away. So let’s look the following financial considerations:

COST OF BATTERIES
Price of 2 CR123 batteries: $2
Price of 1 18650 battery: $9

COST OF USEAGE
*300 total flashlight complete battery cycles
600 CR123’s required = $600
A single 18650 required = $9

Disaster scenarios. Not only do the 18650’s run longer and harder, but you can charge them up whenever you need. You are not reliant on any new supply of primary cells to make your light work. You can even go one step further and use a solar battery pack to recharge the batteries if you need/want to. That means in this conversation, you even have zero reliance on the power grid.

Safety and stability. Some people will say that 18650’s are less safe than CR123 batteries. To be clear, all batteries can fail if subjected to the right conditions. But to say CR123s are safer than 18650s is simply speculative opinion. They are both very safe, very durable and as long as you buy high quality batteries, they are very good performers too.

18650’s are pervasive now. They are available all over the internet, our site included. And you can buy them locally at any vape shop or battery store.

As for charge status and slowly degrading power levels in the batteries over time: Rechargeable cells have come a long ways. These batteries will hold more than adequate charge for many months now. Typically you can go 6 months easily before you need to look at recharging. And even then the argument is simple: Know the status of your equipment. And properly maintain it if you are going to bet your life on it.

The future is a rechargeable one, like it or not. The tech is going in that direction and all the money is being spent on that paradigm. Embrace it and reap the benefits.

What is the difference between lumen rating and candela rating?

The concept of a high lumen weapon light a good thing: You need to be able to see the target. However other companies have taken this as permission to turn the term “lumens” into a sales device. More specifically, they have created a “space race” where manufacturers perpetually try to provide more and more output. And conceptually that’s a good thing. The customer gets better equipment that way. However it’s also brutally misleading.

The lumen rating of a light is simply how much raw light is being emitted. This is measured either at the LED itself or “Out-The-Front” meaning it’s measured once the light gets past the lens. Either way, it’s just a number that is correlated to performance. Think of the lumen rating as the potential for performance in a weapon-light.

Candela however is very different. Candela is essentially a measurement of light concentration at a standardized distance. From a shooters perspective, it tells you how much light you’ll be able to put on a target. And for a weapon light, there is nothing more important than being able to put useable light on a target. That is the entire point of having a light on your gun. Useable light on-target gives you the ability to get Positive Identification. It gives you situational awareness. It also gives you a non-lethal option because a high candela light is very disruptive to the human eye.

If you want a quick demonstration: Turn the flashlight feature on your cellphone in a dark room. You’ll see X amount of lumens present but that is not useable in a weapon application. It’s intended use is that of an administrative light. And it’s fine for that purpose. But if you take that same light, put a reflector over it and focus it, you multiply your candela of that light exponentially. And now it’s useful for a lot more than just simple admin purposes.

So lumen rating is important, based on the intended application. But candela is truly king when it comes weapon-light applications. Also worth noting is that you need both lumen rating and candela rating to be truly effective on a weapon-based application. If you have unfocused lumens you have a light that can’t And nobody does it better than the REIN.

Tell me more about the REIN switching?

The concept of a high lumen weapon light a good thing: You need to be able to see the target. However other companies have taken this as permission to turn the term “lumens” into a sales device. More specifically, they have created a “space race” where manufacturers perpetually try to provide more and more output. And conceptually that’s a good thing. The customer gets better equipment that way. However it’s also brutally misleading.

The lumen rating of a light is simply how much raw light is being emitted. This is measured either at the LED itself or “Out-The-Front” meaning it’s measured once the light gets past the lens. Either way, it’s just a number that is correlated to performance. Think of the lumen rating as the potential for performance in a weapon-light.

Candela however is very different. Candela is essentially a measurement of light concentration at a standardized distance. From a shooters perspective, it tells you how much light you’ll be able to put on a target. And for a weapon light, there is nothing more important than being able to put useable light on a target. That is the entire point of having a light on your gun. Useable light on-target gives you the ability to get Positive Identification. It gives you situational awareness. It also gives you a non-lethal option because a high candela light is very disruptive to the human eye.

If you want a quick demonstration: Turn the flashlight feature on your cellphone in a dark room. You’ll see X amount of lumens present but that is not useable in a weapon application. It’s intended use is that of an administrative light. And it’s fine for that purpose. But if you take that same light, put a reflector over it and focus it, you multiply your candela of that light exponentially. And now it’s useful for a lot more than just simple admin purposes.

So lumen rating is important, based on the intended application. But candela is truly king when it comes weapon-light applications. Also worth noting is that you need both lumen rating and candela rating to be truly effective on a weapon-based application. If you have unfocused lumens you have a light that can’t And nobody does it better than the REIN.

Tell me more about cable management with the REIN LCS?

Cloud Defensive got its start with cable management via the Light Control System. And to this day, it’s very much on our radar. We knew very early in the development cycle of the REIN and it’s switch that we needed to offer even more cable management support. And that is exactly what we did.

We maintained our patented cable control and integrated that into all generation side plates of the REIN LCS. With the patented Early Exit channels, the user can run the cable in any direction they want. You can route it directly out the side towards the light. You can route it forward through the cable channel and then out the front. This will be a common set-up if your light is forward of your switch. For example, on a 14.5-16” gun you can route the cable out the back, towards the tailcap, then wrap it back around through the side plate towards the light. Doing this is a very good way to deal with any excess wire and will result in the “cleanest” possible setup IF your light is located in the correct position. This option also works great for SBR setups with and without laser integration.

A short word on REIN remote switch cables: The cable is stiff because it needs to be in order to carry the higher current we work with. This makes install tedious. Be patient. Ask us for advice if you need help. And remember, some setups will require you to mount the switch before the light. This is a highly adaptable light. And it’s worth the extra time you’ll spend to make sure you do this right. Go slow and be a little deliberate in your planning with regards to where you are mounting the light and switch.

What if my mechanical REIN switch fails?

All mechanical switches can and will inevitably fail. Great care has been taken to ensure that you now own the best and most reliable switch in the industry. If you have an issue with the switch, there are a couple of things to note here.

First, it can be replaced without removing the light from the gun in most cases.

Secondly, we sell replacement units at about ½ what the market would normally sell switches for. We don’t gouge our customers. Ever.

Finally, if your remote switch fails, your light STILL WORKS. Each variant of the REIN that comes with a remote switch also comes with a mechanical switch in the rear of the tail cap. That switch and the mechanical switch are electrically independent of each other. So one switch can literally be wrecked and the other will still work. Not that we recommend it, but you can physically cut the wire from the remote switch and the push-button will still work on the tail cap.

Can I use my REIN light head on my MCH body?

Due to the advanced thermal and electrical design of the REIN, Cloud Defensive does not condone the use of the REIN light heads on handheld MCH light bodies/tails. Do not try this. REIN light heads need to stay on weapons only.

Is it normal for my REIN to get very hot?

The REIN has industry-leading and highly advanced thermal regulatory systems. As we know, when light is produced, so is heat. With the REIN being the most powerful weapon light on the market, it can get hot. Due to the nature of a weapon light and because during normal use, the light is not directly touched by human hands, we allow the REIN to get hot enough that touching it during prolonged periods of use could cause a drop-response. We view this as an application of common sense – you don’t grab a hot suppressor. Nor do you grab a hot weapon light. And in return for letting the light run hotter, you get the highest-performing weapon light ever brought to market.

What light mounts work with the REIN?

All generation REINS are designed to use the standard SCOUT® mounting profile.

Why is my REIN light "flickering"?

A flickering REIN is caused from an improper connection, loose battery jack or dying/bad battery. The first thing to do is make sure your battery is in working order and properly charged. Remember, all batteries have a lifespan even rechargeables. If this does not resolve your issue, follow the steps in the video below to insure proper connection of the head, tailcap and battery jack.